Photoshop Tips for Artists

Yes you can: How to install 2 versions of Photoshop on your computer

2011-03-28T13:36:00.000-07:00

Starting today, this blog will begin to offer tips for using Photoshop Elements. I've found that many of my artist friends find the price of regular Photoshop too much for their wallet, and I've offered to teach a course on Elements 9 (the latest version as of this date, running about $88 on Amazon.com).

Since I still use the Photoshop CS3 for my business, I needed to find a way to install Elements on my computer side-by-side. It's pretty easy, actually. Other reasons a person might want to do this is to have the safety net of the old version while learning the new one.

First, if you have another version of Photoshop running, turn it off for now.

1. Put the installation DVD in your DVD drive. Click on Run Autoplay.exe

2. Choose your language and go through any other screens until you come to the install screen.

3.The install screen will appear. Click on Install.

3. On the Product configuration screen, enter your country and the serial number from the product case.

4. This is where we get to the dual installation part. On the Destination Folder screen, click the Change button.

5. We'll be making a new folder for the program, so we're not in danger of overwriting our previously installed software version, so click on the Create New Folder icon as shown below.

6. The new folder appears at the end of the list...

7. Overwrite the blue highlighted text with a new name, in this case, "Adobe Elements 9"

8. Now double-click on that folder to open it, and then choose 'OK'

9. The new folder will now show as your new Destination Folder. Click 'Next' to continue the rest of the steps to complete the installation.

From your start menu, you'll now be able to access either version of Photoshop.
This method works with other types of software, too.

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Working with Obscure Technology #2: Minolta Slide Scanners in Windows 7

2011-03-21T12:32:00.000-07:00

Like many of you who've been at the painting game since pre-'hysterical' times (read: pre-digital), you may have literally thousands upon tens of thousands of slides stored-- and every now and then, you decide you HAVE to access one and scan it.

I have a Konica/Minolta DiMage Scan Dual IV that I bought some years back in the slide-to-digital transition era (my 3rd slide scanner, to date). It does an OK job getting the slides moved onto the computer; i.e., not professional quality but if you need them for personal use. Then you can work them over (using cool tips you found here!) in Photoshop. However, I found the scanner would not operate on Windows 7 as it had on XP. Searching for a solution, I trolled the internet for a couple of hours and located this workable solution.

To get the drivers to work correctly in Windows 7 (also Vista), follow the steps found here (not nearly as complicated as they sound).

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Dealing with old file formats: Kodak PCD - how to install Photo CD.8BI so you can open those old photos

2011-03-09T13:33:00.000-08:00

I can't think of anything more aggravating than wasting time on the computer trying to solve what should be a minor, minor problem (give me an afternoon sitting around at the DMV, any day). Having wasted a good day on this, I'm hoping I can spare someone else out there some grief.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of computers, I love the digital era. But for those of us (which has to be a WHOLE lot of us) who've been archiving our artwork since the pre-digital days (i.e., old fashioned transparencies and slides), and the early digital days, we may find from time to time that we can't access our old files.
Have some of your artwork (or favorite family photos) stored on a Kodak Digital Science Portfolio II disc? Tried to access it lately, only to find that your latest version of Photoshop (CS3 or up) won't open it? And of course since it's outmoded file format, neither Kodak nor Adobe will offer any support on what can't be an uncommon problem.

Here's the (kinda-sorta) simple solution: locate a copy of a plug-in file, namely Photo CD.8BI and place it in your current make and model of Photoshop plug-ins file.

Here's the rub: You have to have an old version of Photoshop from which to grab the plug in (luckily I did). Supposedly you just need the installation disc, but I had to actually install the old program in order to even locate the plug-in. Which led to error messages galore but I digress.
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The truly simple solution: (For Windows users)
Download the Photo CD.8BI plug-in by clicking here and follow the instructions.
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If you're an Apple aficionado, try this:
On Mac OS, copy the PhotoCD.plugin file from the Goodies\Optional Plug-Ins\Kodak PhotoCD folder on the installation CD to Applications/Adobe Photoshop CS3/Plug-Ins/File Formats.

New in CS3: Shadow/Highlight Adjustment

2010-04-11T18:41:00.000-07:00

Remember, the primary goal of photographing and editing photos of your artwork is to make the final image as visually true to the original artwork as digitally possible.

"Paisans", oil, 9" x 12", the final corrected web image

Wow, where did the time go? Bet you thought I'd never post another tip.

I'm never one to upgrade too quickly; bugs need to be worked out, the price can be high, and are there REALLY cool new tools you can't live without in the upgrades? Maybe yes, maybe no. But when I found Adobe CS3 Master Suite at a sweet discount (and yes, yes, I know that CS4 is the latest thing), I caved, mostly after months of having to beg a 'Mac' friend to revert EPS logos for me for Illustrator (you know who you are, JC, and thank you! By the way, I checked just now; Amazon has Photoshop CS3 for about $150. Not too bad).

As it turns out, as I've been trying out the new tools, I did find a very useful one. If you're lucky enough to have CS3 of CS4, try out this new trick:

Shadow/Highlight Adjustment

Step one:
Really handy for the times when your photo contrast is too dark.
In the case of our step one photo (below), the image is just a bit too dark all around.

so, as we've done in all past tutorials, start by opening your original file, save a copy of it, and make a copy of the background layer.

Step two:

On your toolbar, go to Image/Adjustments/Shadow Highlight
as shown below. Click on it.

Step Three:
A big, long dialog box will pop up. Not to worry, most of the default settings are going to be just fine for now. Tinker if you like, but don't sweat it. At the bottom, if the 'Show Preview' box is checked, you'll notice your image is magically brighter! Maybe Too Much, but we can correct that later. Treat your first few tries at this as experiments, and just click on 'OK'.

Step Four:

Okay, now let's say it's a bit TOO bright. Two things you can do here:

One, always remember that Ctrl + Shift + F (Cmd + Shift + F for Mac users) will always to adjust the opacity of any filter. So try that first, maybe at about 50%, and see how it looks. Ah, much better.

Step five:
If further contrast correction is needed, I'd suggest going back to our old pal, the Levels function. If the color or hue is off, check through our other tips for ideas.

Every artwork you photograph is going to have its own set of quirks, based on the color and contrast of the art itself, the lighting conditions, and whatever camera you may be using. Often you'll find you need to use more than one adjustment to get the photo looking like the art. With a little practice, you'll find you can do it very quickly. Have fun!

Questions? Always welcome.

Cosmetic Surgery with The Spot Healing Brush

2009-07-13T10:40:00.000-07:00

This Photoshop tutorial will show how to remove small glare spots, scratches, fuzz, cat hairs, and other boo boos (think of this as the 'cosmetic surgery' of Photoshop).

final edited image at left, Cuppa Black, 10" x 10"

First, a nice compliment: Here's a really great quote (Thanks Doug!) from the very fine painter Doug Hoover:
"R. I just wanted to tell you, as a 20 year recovering creative veteran, your Photoshop posts are spot-on. You know your PSD stuff. For a full-time artist, I think Photoshop is invaluable. And the only way to get good at this is to do it over and over. I started using Photoshop in 1995 and haven't looked back... You rock... D.

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So, onto to today's tutorial:

Repairing small glare spots, scratches, fuzz, and other boo boos with the Spot Healing Brush.

First, I've opened the usual set of two matching images, and then used the Zoom Tool to magnify what I want to correct: primarily the cat hair (how'd that get in there??). To use the Zoom tool, click on the icon in the bottom of the side tool box that looks like a tiny magnifying glass. Holding down your Ctrl Key, (Cmmd for Mac users), click on + to enlarge, and - to reduce. (that's the 'plus' and minus' keys respectively.

Photoshop (CS2 and up) has a great little tool called the Spot Healing Brush; it is located on the main toolbox and the icon looks like a little bandaid. For small repairs on photos you can't beat this tool.

The Spot Healing Tool is very easy to use. Click on the tool, and then set the size as needed in the toolbar above: click on 'Brush' and a drop down palette will let you size the tool. To use the tool to take away dust motes, tiny raised spots that caught the light, etc., simply click on the offending spot. It will automatically blend into the surrounding area.

For scratches or hairs on a straight line, click on one end of the line (the circle below indicated that starting point of the tool); then hold hold the shift key, and click again. The whole line should correct. If you get color crossover, undo the step (Ctrl+Z) and do in shorter segments.

Below is the corrected photo (on the left) line gone!

Reducing the appearance of glare in dark areas with Contrast/Brightness

2009-06-08T08:48:00.000-07:00

(Final edited image: Parrot Tulips, R. Garriott, oil, 24"x24")

The best way to avoid having to deal with glare in photo editing is to avoid it when photographing. Try some of the photo suggestions posted here to eliminate or reduce this issue.

Occasionally, though, you'll be in a hurry, photograph without checking, the painting goes out the door, gets sold... and the only record you have is a photo with glare-- as in this sample in the tutorial below. For those instances, here's a method that might help minimize the effect of glare a bit.

The Magic Wand Tool

With the Magic Wand tool, select the areas of glare that are most noticeable. (As in past tutorials, I've included a second 'control' image to the right, to help show the change.) In this case, it's the upper and left background. Select 'contiguous' on the upper toolbar to select only pixels that touch each other (otherwise it will select pixels all over the image). You can adjust the tolerance as needed; 32 is the default, it is set at 20 here. You'll see a dotted line around the area as you select it. To select more area at the same time, hold down your shift key while continuing to click on areas with the Magic Wand.

In the top toolbar, choose Image/Image Adjustment/Brightness-contrast. To darken, move the brightness pointer to the left. In this case I've reduced the brightness by -14. This allows the background to blend in with the dark areas at bottom and left with no noticeable line.

Release the selected area, and you'll have your result. If you get a 'line' or the fix doesn't blend in smoothly, undo (Ctrl+Z), try again, and adjust your increments.

If the glare covers a large portion and is noticeable over areas of light and dark, I would suggest rephotographing as a first step.

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Here's one more little tip that may help you-- when you use the Magic Wand in an image with mixed shades, it may not pick up all the pixels in an area. So while holding down the Shift Key, click the Magic Wand a few times, moving around to pick up more pixels, and then if you need to pick up strays, switch to the 'Lasso' tool (while still holding down the Shift key)-- it's right next to the Magic Wand. Move your mouse in a loop around the stray pixels, and then make your adjustment with Brightness/Contrast or Levels.

I hope you find this tip useful! Happy photo editing!

Using Templates to Set Up Business cards, postcards, and other printed materials

2009-06-01T19:16:00.000-07:00

Ordering business cards, postcards, and other printed promotional material for promoting your art is easy and cost effective. For ideas on printing companies to try, see the earlier post on Affordable Business Cards. Most of the information you need is available on any of these print sites. Look for the terms:

Download Template
Artwork specifications
Preparing Artwork files

Tips for setting up your own invitational postcard.
Note: virtually the same method applies for business cards, with the exception of the mailing information.

DOWNLOAD A TEMPLATE
When setting up digital files, check with your chosen printing company for Templates; they will almost always be available for download on the website, often under the term: Artwork Specifications.

Here's a sample view of a VistaPrint.com template for a standard size postcard, front. all vital information should be well within the Safe Margin (blue outline)

...and here's the template for the back of the postcard. Note that it takes postal regulations into account.
SAVE THE TEMPLATE TO A NEW NAME
such as, 'mypostcard2009.psd'
EDIT AND SAVE YOUR PHOTO IMAGE
in a separate document, save the photo of your artwork you'd like to use on your card. You'll want to use 300 dpi, with a color mode of CMYK.
For best results, make this image the same dimensions as it will print on the final card. See other tutorials on this blog if if you need more information.
If you want the image to cover the entire card, be aware that some of your image will be cropped off.
COPY AND PASTE YOUR FINAL PHOTO IMAGE
Add your photo to the downloaded template.
ADD TYPE TO YOUR LAYOUT
Making sure again that your file is 300 dpi (from the top toolbar, click on image/image size; look for the the number in the 'resolution' box); add type using the Type tool in Photoshop (It looks like a capital 'T').
CHECK YOUR TRIM AND SAFE MARGINS
Make sure you don't have any type or important parts of your image outside these lines or they may get cut off.
DELETE THE ORIGINAL TEMPLATE LAYER
If you leave this layer in, it may get printed. Oops!
SAVE THE FINALIZED FILE
You may find it useful to save a copy as a .PDF; this is a smaller file but is accepted by most printing companies.
UPLOAD THE FILE
After you complete both the front and back files, you should be ready to upload your file for ordering. Follow the online directions at the printing company of your choice.

I realize this is kind of a loose overview; please let me know if you think more detail would be useful. As I said, most of this information is available at each printing site, along with their own specific directions.

Editing Photos for Print: When to Convert to CMYK?

2009-05-21T11:16:00.000-07:00

Thank you for the great comments and suggestions on my posts about printing your own Artist Business Cards on my painting blog. I hope that some of you will be inspired to have cards printed (and I would love to see your results!).

Loredana asked a really great question this week: "When you work on your photos to correct levels or balancing or anything else, do you work on RGB and after you modify it, you switch to CMYK to print?; or you switch to CMYK directly and you modify it later? I noticed a big difference from one to another when I watch the folder's preview and find the CMYK quite uncomfortable to watch!"

The simple answer (with a few extra details):

For Print:

Start with RGB, and do all or most of your editing in RGB.
RGB is the native format for most digital files.
Some editing procedures are not available in CMYK.

Convert to CMYK as the last step only if the file is being sent to a print house.

If you are printing from your home or office printer, you can use RGB or CMYK. Try both and see which you prefer.

For Internet images (blogs and websites):

Images to be used only for onscreen viewing (websites, blogs) should NEVER be converted to CMYK.

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For a more thorough explanation of CMYK vs. RGB try this link:
http://www.printernational.org/rgb-versus-cmyk.php

(You may want to review the earlier post on File Types, too.)
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Color Balance: Removing unwanted color cast in your images

2009-05-18T14:33:00.001-07:00

What follows is a repost of one of the most popular tips in this series thus far.
(final edited photo below: 3 Tangerines, oil, 9" x 12")

So, you've tried the Levels and maybe the Hue/Saturation tricks, but your image is still not quite there: maybe you've got a decidely 'cool' or 'warm' cast that is not present in the actual artwork. This is where Color Balance can be of use. I tend to use this one near the end of the editing process, as it seems more subtle to me. This is the tool for when your values are right, your contrast is correct, but the color is just a little off.

The image below has been edited for contrast and levels already; it does have a bit of a 'milky' look in real life, but the red of that tablecloth is off.

To open the color Balance dialog box, click Cntrl+B (Cmnd+B for Mac users, or Image/Adjustments/Color Balance in the top toolbar). As in previous tips, I've used a 'control' image duplicate on the left so you can see the change.

Starting with the Midtones, move the sliders to add more color as needed; like many of the Photoshop tools, you will need to trust your eyes and experiment. It's also very handy to have the artwork right where you can see it as you make these adjustments.

In this case I could see that the tablecloth photo had too much purple (blue) in it, and needed to be more red. (I had painted it with a warm red earth, Blockx Capucine Yellow Deep.) The sliders were moved toward red and yellow, respectively.

In a separate step, I adjusted the 'highlight' colors, again choosing to move toward red and yellow, but also a bit toward green. (Another mini tip: For each adjustment you make, copy the previous layer and adjust on the new layer. Then if you really get lost, you can back up).

As a final step, I adjusted the Shadows, this time moving toward Magenta and Blue. This step was more logical than intuitive; shadows are often cooler shades. This is so close to original painting, I've amazed even myself.

Hue: How to Correct Color with the Hue/Saturation Command

2009-05-14T13:48:00.000-07:00

Just to show that the pros don't always get it right, either! I took this painting to a professional photo lab and paid to have a good image of it put on CD. I have to admit I was dismayed when I got it back-- my lovely chartreuse dahlia (seen at left in the final edited image: Sunny Mandahlia, 30"x30") was now leaning seriously into orange-- (see below)!
(I have the feeling that digital cameras are programmed to shoot a full spectrum of color; when given a monochromatic image, it 'confuses' the interface and it tries to make up the difference, with sometimes odd results.)

Using Hue to edit and refine your artwork photos.
In the sample below, I've opened the original file and made a duplicate layer to edit on, as before. For the purpose of the tutorial, I've made a second 'control' image to help show the changes in progress.

To begin, click Ctrl + U (Cmnd+U for Mac users, or Image/Adjustments/Hue-Saturation on the top toolbar. This will bring up the Hue Saturation dialog box.

For this image, which I want to be less red and more green, I've moved the Hue slider to the right. Notice it doesn't take much; I've only gone from 0 to 10.

Note that the Hue adjustment method tends to work better on predominantly monochromatic images like this one; if your artwork encompasses more than a short range of color you may get some surprisingly interesting (if not useful) results.

Originally when I set this tutorial up, it was to show how to correct the color shift using the Green and Red Channels in Levels. While this can be done, I found that in this instance, using Hue was much more expedient. I'll revisit the issue of color adjustment with Levels at a later date, with a different image.

Levels Part 2: Correcting a Black and White Image with Set Point in Levels or Curves.

2009-05-11T13:54:00.000-07:00

In Photoshop, there are often different ways to accomplish similar goals.

In this tutorial, I've referenced the 'Levels ' function, but you can also try this with 'Curves'. And in addition to working on black and white images, either of these tools may help in editing your color images as well.

When you are in Levels (or in Curves), you can use the eyedroppers in the lower right corner of the box to set your black and your white. Just click on the "white" eyedropper, and then click on a place in your photograph that you know is white... then do the same thing with black... and it virtually color-corrects for you.

Diagram A.

Here's the step by step: I've opened the original dark file (as you can see, the same funky sketch from last time), and made a copy of it for on screen comparision.

To begin, Click on Ctrl + L (Cmnd+L for Mac) or from the top toolbar, Image Adjustments/Levels to bring up the Levels dialog box. (for Curves, substitute + M; the dialog box will look different but the eyedropeers will be in the same position.)

Note the eyedroppers in the lower right hand corner as shown in Diagram A above. Click on the farthest right one, the 'Set white Point' dropper. Choose an area on your image that you know to be (in life) true white (in this case I clicked on the lower lefthand background), and click on that area with the dropper. Voila!

If the image didn't turn out quite how you wanted, click Ctrl + Z for undo, and try the step again with another 'white' area of the image. (Notice the middle graph, called a Histogram, and how it changes in these steps. The histogram measures the relativve amount of light and dark across your image).

As Carrie pointed out, do the step again using the left hand dropper to set your black point; I've done it here, using the shadow under the babushka's lower lip.

Big Thanks to Carrie Jacobson who emailed me her photographer-husband's Photoshop Tip --

How to Correct Contrast with the Levels function, part one.

2009-05-05T14:19:00.000-07:00

Levels magic

Levels is one of the most useful Photoshop tools I know of. It can be used to correct both color and contrast. It takes a little practice and some trial and error, but it can work wonders to improve your photos. I'll show several examples over time of how this tool works in various situations.

Right image: Final edit, Datura, 20"x20" R. Garriott

Today’s tutorial starts with an overly dark photo. This can happen a lot when photographing paintings with a lot of white in them. Let's see if we can fix it. (Note that it’s already been cropped and aligned as per tip 2. I've made a duplicate layer to edit on.)

Click Ctrl + L (or Cmnd + L for Mac) to open the levels dialog box
(it can also be accessed from the top toolbar: Image/Adjustments/Levels)
(Note: I've shown a duplicate file to better show how the levels works)

Using the default tab (Channel: RGB), slowly adjust the three arrows until the image is closer to your original art. I suggest starting with the middle arrow first:

the basic rule for the middle arrow is left is lighter, right is darker.
To darken your darks, move the left point inward;
to lighten your lights, move the right pointer back towards the center.
Make sure the 'preview' box is checked so you can watch the transformation.
If at any point you feel you've lost control, click cancel and start again.
Once the image is where you want it, click Enter.

This image will still need a little color correction, but you can see how much improved the photo is with this one simple step.

How to Calibrate Your Monitor

2009-05-02T06:44:00.000-07:00

To calibrate one's monitor means to reset it to an accurate display of light and color.

To make sure your seeing your own images accurately, you may want to calibrate your monitor every couple months. (This link provides a 'test page' of black and whites that may help you decide whether to perform a calibration. Handy instructions are provided: http://www.photofriday.com/calibrate.php

Calibrating your monitor can be a simple and free process. If you have Adobe Photoshop installed, you will already a calibration tool, Adobe Gamma, installed as well. To access it on a PC (scroll down for instructions for Mac):

Go to your Start button (lower left corner of your screen), /Control Panel/Adobe Gamma.
Move the pop up box to a lower or upper corner (this will make sure it not covered up by the monitor settings overlay in the next step). Then just follow the on screen directions.

The pop up box will walk you through adjusting your monitor settings; when ask to make adjustments for contrast and brightness, you will want to use the buttons on the bottom frame of your monitor (example shown below). You may find it helpful to look up your monitor model online for instructions on how to adjust your particular settings.

Mac users, try this link for information on calibration for the mac: http://www.computer-darkroom.com/colorsync-display/colorsync_1.htm

Here's an alternate explanation on monitor calibration, which includes a link to a free calibration tool, Quick Gamma, for those of you without Photoshop:
http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-Monitor

If your monitor is very old, with a faded or discolored display, and doesn't seem to respond well to calibration, you may want to consider replacing it.

Gamma Settings: Using Image Ready to Adjust for Best Cross Platform Effect

2009-04-30T12:45:00.000-07:00

See the post on Gamma on my painting blog for more information and a disclaimer.

Have you ever looked at your blog or website on a computer other than your own? You might be in for quite a surprise. It's probably NOT going to look the same on another computer as it does on the one you have at home (or office). Especially try and get a look on the platform you don't have-- such as view your blog on a Mac if you own a PC, or on a laptop or flat screen if you're using a CRT old style monitor. Because we edit mostly on one given computer, that is the one that is 'True' to our eyes. But it's a partial truth, at best.

"The gamma value of a computer monitor affects how light or dark an image looks in a web browser. Because Windows systems use a gamma of 2.2, images look darker on Windows than on Mac OS systems, which are normally set to a gamma of 1.8."

So if you're viewing other peoples blogs and websites from a Mac, it might seem that a lot of other people's images are washed out looking.
Conversely, if viewing from a PC, there might be some other's images that are so dark you can barely make them out.

Well, we can't do anything for most of these images, but we can be aware of the impact of our own images. Luckily there's a pretty simple way to make this adjustment. First, a visual example of what we're talking about:

Gamma 1.8 example (as might be created on a Mac, but as seen on a PC)

The same image, but as a Gamma 2.2 example (as might be created on a PC, but as viewed on a Mac)

You might be thinking, why should I care? And maybe you don't need to. I do think most of want our images show up as true to life as possible; however given the millions of monitor variations (and the fact that almost no one calibrates their monitors the suggested once a month), I'd only be concerned if I was consistently getting messages from others that my images were showing up too dark or too light. Mac users won't like this one bit, but because of the predominance of PC's, Mac users might be the ones to find this information most helpful.

To adjust your gamma settings, you'll need to open your image in Image Ready (this comes bundled with Photoshop); one way, if you were making edits in Photoshop, is to click on your 'File/Save for web' option; the dialog box that opens witll have an option at the lower right corner: "Edit in Image Ready".

From there, choose Image/Adjustments/Gamma as shown below.

The gamma dialog box will pop up and offer 2 basic buttons: click the one appropriate to your situation (example: choose Windows to Mac if you to email a photo to a client who has a Mac, but you have a PC). The image will automatically adjuct; then you just need to save it.

Note:

A possible workaround to this issue is the PNG file, but..."The PNG graphic file format has a feature that effectively adjusts the gamma of picture depending the platform it is running on. It sounds like an ideal answer but the format has been very slow to take off and is not widely supported by browsers." (Click for source)

As an experiment, I'm posting PNG file here. Let me know if it appears on your screen, and whether it looks 'more acurate' than either of the two above.

Was any of this helpful? Let me know.

CMYK vs. RGB: knowing which color space to use

2009-04-28T15:37:00.000-07:00

The two basic color spaces, or Modes, that you'll most often encounter with your digital images are RGB and CMYK. Each has a specific use, outlined below.

RGB (Red-Green-Blue) is the color of the light emitted from your computer monitor, and from TV's. Use RGB if you are taking photos specifically to be viewed onscreen, such as the internet, or for a CD or emails. RGB usually also works well for printing from your home or office printer.

CMYK (Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black) is the color of inks used in the offset printing process. Use CMYK if you are sending your photo to be printed, such as preparing a postcard to be professionally printed for a gallery invite.
NOTE: CMYK is an option offered only in full versions of Photoshop; it is not available in Photoshop elements or most other photo editing programs (if you know of one, please comment, thanks!). However, if you, if you don't have it, and need to have your files converted to CMYK, do all your edits and then take to a Kinkos or similar shop and they can convert for you).

What color mode is your photo? In most cases, right off of your digital camera, the mode (or color space) will be RGB. You can tell in Photoshop by looking at the blue bar at the top of your open image (see the red arrow).

If you need to change the mode of your image, from the top toolbar click Image/Mode/CMYK.

Changing mode can affect the appearance of your image.

If you switch to CMYK from RGB, you may need to adjust your color. You may notice, as in this exaggerated sample, that the colors in the CMYK sample on the right have become somewhat subdued, especially in the blue range.

For a more thorough explanation of CMYK vs. RGB try this link:
http://www.printernational.org/rgb-versus-cmyk.php

File Types: Lossy vs. Lossless files for your artwork

2009-04-25T16:27:00.000-07:00

This tutorial is to you show why you should always edit your photos in a "lossless" format, such as a .PSD file or a .TIF file. When you've completed editing, that is the time to resize and save as a .jpg for your blog or website.

As a kid, did you ever xerox a xerox, and then xerox THAT xerox...? And after about 20 prints you get this mooshy, funky, broken up picture?
Or here's another example: Your FAX machine. Ever notice how crappy faxes tend to be, barely readable half the time? That's because a FAX and a XEROX are both good examples of LOSSY formats.

LOSSY formats (.JPG, .GIF) LOOSE information-- poorer quality, but faster download
LOSSLESS formats (.PSD, .TIFF) SAVE information -- good quality, not appropriate for web, but good for print.

Here's a visual:

Sample A went through 6 types of edits as a 300 dpi .PSD file BEFORE reducing it to 72 dpi and saving it as a .JPG for the blog.
Sample B is an example of what might happen if the same image went through six types of editing and saving, all as a 72 dpi .JPG. See a bit of a difference?

JPG's are a LOSSY format. This means that every time you make a change to the file and resave it, the pixel data is compressed (meaning, the system 'throws out' anything it deems redundant). Pretty quickly, you will lose image quality if editing and saving only in JPG's. For this reason, I recommend to ALWAYS take your original digital file and immediately save it a PSD file. PSD's are a LOSSLESS format, so your pixel data is less prone to degradation.

Quick review:

Set your camera to record high resolution JPG's as in the last post, as per your camera's manual
Save the original digital image as a .PSD file before any editing.*
Once you've finished editing the photo, then you can save a copy of it as a JPG.

WHAT'S NEXT: I'll demonstrate how to save for both print and web in a later post.

*Alternately, can you set your camera to record TIFF's (another lossless format) and edit these safely? Yes, you can if you want. However, I have two things against TIFF's; one, the files can be so large on a standard setting (23 MB per picture) that they can be slow to work on, even with a well powered computer, and also take up a lot of storage space on your computer. But if you prefer TIFFs, then by all means use them.
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File Types: What's the difference between JPG, PSD, TIFF, and which do I use when?

2009-04-24T10:55:00.001-07:00

I've had some good questions about file types and sizes...
I'll be breaking this topic into short bits over the next few posts, as it covers a lot of territory.

The basic issue is:
Where will the photo ultimately be used?
Print or Web?

Print Requirements:
(professional printing, office/home printing)

Larger files in high resolution (300 dpi)
Print files for professional printers must be CMYK* mode (I will do another post about color space.)
Appropriate file types can be PSD, TIFF, a high resolution JPG, and sometimes PDF.
(Which I'll discuss in more detail in another post.)

Web Requirements
(Computer viewed images websites, blogs, email, etc.)

Smaller files in low resolution (72 dpi): this is so they load fast and it doesn't take ten minutes for your blog to show up with pictures.
Color space for Internet images is RGB mode.
The appropriate file type for photos of artwork is most commonly a low resolution JPG.

Tomorrow: 'Lossy' versus 'Lossless' file types

Photoshop tips: Straightening with the Measure Tool

2009-04-22T18:29:00.000-07:00

Final corrected image: "Birds in Flight" .. oil .. 18" x 36" .. SOLD

This tutorial is a variation on the last one. Often in Photoshop you'll find that problems can be solved in any number of ways. If your original photo seems tilted, more than skewed, try using the Measure Tool before cropping or fixing skew. It may get you most of the way there.

Straightening your image with the Measure Tool is very easy:

1. Click on the Measure tool in the tool box to activate it. It looks like a mini ruler, and may be hiding under your eyedropper tool.

2. Click your mouse button down and hold it to draw a horizontal guide line from left to right (or a vertical line from bottom to top), across any line that should be straight, but is not (The measure line here appears at the top of the canvas, as a somewhat dotted line).

3. From the top toolbar, click on Image/Rotate/Arbitrary.

4. The correct amount of rotation will automatically be assigned to make the line level, as shown below.

5. At this point, your image is ready to crop. You may wish to go back to the earlier tutorial on cropping and fixing any remaining skew.

Photoshop Tips: Cropping, and Fixing Skewed Artwork Photos

2009-04-19T18:30:00.000-07:00

Have a question on how to fix a specific photo problem? Please ask! I'll see if I can be of assistance.

At right: The final edited image: Hibiscus with Two Skies, 30" x 30"

The most common complaint
I hear/see about artwork photos that artists take themselves is, 'The color's not right'. So in later tips, I will give several instructions on how to correct this issue with Photoshop.

For today, however, I'm going to start where I usually start myself, which is to crop and straighten (or un-skew) the raw photographic image. I've seen enough uncropped, skewed images to know that not everyone knows how to do this simple fix.

Crop and Straighten (using guidelines) *

NOTE TO MAC USERS: Anywhere the instructions say 'Ctrl+ ', substitute using the Command key + the letter specified. 'Apple+'.

Open your original photo document. Always start with a good size photo; a .JPG that is 300 dpi and about 10" x 7" (to check the size of your photo from the toolbar, click Image/Image size).
I like to make a layer copy of the original: Ctrl+A (select all), then Ctrl+C (copy), Ctrl + V (paste); and then save it as a .PSD. More information is saved in a PSD file. When the photo is completely edited you can save it as .JPG.
Setting up guidelines: Click Ctrl+R. This will bring up the rulers on the top and left of your document (to hide the rulers, use the same command). To make a straight guide line, place your mouse on on of the rules, then hold down the key on your mouse and pull down or to the right. Put the guidelines close to the outer edge of your painting as it appears in the photo.

To crop your photo, choose the crop tool from the side tool kit. Drag the crop into position, and then click enter.
To straighten and align your artwork: click Ctrl + A (select all), then Ctrl + T (transform). Right click on the image and choose 'skew'.This will allow you to pull each corner outwards to correct the alignment of the image. If your image has internal 90 degree lines, as this sample does, you can add additional guidelines to help you. When it's adjusted to your satisfaction, click Enter.

Alternately, if you image does not appears skewed but is merely rotated a bit off, you could use the Rotate function (also under Transform).
To remove the guidelines, go to your top toolbar and click View/Clear Guides. Your image is now ready for color correction.

Basic Tips for Photographing Art for the Technically Challenged

2009-04-18T17:24:00.000-07:00

Digital cameras have been a revolution, and revelation for artists in particular. I'm sure you remember the film days; pay for film, and for processing, waiting sometimes days to get your slides back...and then crossing your finges, hoping, hoping, that the exposures were good, that the camera was in focus... that the lab didn't lose your film right before the big art show entry was due... (happens)!

There are times you will want and need to take your work to a professional photo studio. I trust you'll figure out those times. For the Daily Painter, though, who wishes to post a photo a day, there's nothing faster and more cost effective than taking your own. I've been shooting photos since my teens but I still consider my style 'point and shoot'. A true professional photographer would be appalled by my lack of camera knowledge. Still, after decades of hining my 'non-method', I may have some useful tips for the non technical among you-- and you know who you are!

Getting the most of out of your 'raw' photos

Photoshop can work wonders on many photos, but the better your original image is, the less editing, headaches and better final results you'll have.

Unless you have the luxury of professional photo lights set up somewhere in your studio, you'll probably get the best photos outdoors. You'll have to do some experimenting to find what works best for you, and it may vary somewhat by each painting.
If you're shooting watercolors, drawings, pastels, etc.: Photograph before framing with glass! You will save yourself so many headaches.
Try photographing in a variety of light settings; I'm fond of middle of day (that is, around 10 a.m. and again around 2 p.m.) 'bright shade'-- to minimize glare and 'hot spots' from brush strokes.
Try angling the painting into, and conversely, away from the sun; see which works the best to reduce glare. You might also experiment with the positioning of the canvas; lay it face up on a table or on the ground, hang it on a wall, or at an angle leaning on something-- all will provide somewhat different results-- and the background gets cropped in the end anyway.
Do try and square the edges of the painting in your viewfinder to minimize straightening issues in the editing phase. Take at least a half dozen images of any artwork and choose the best one to begin editing. Remember, there's no film to waste here-- go crazy.

Check the manual on your digital camera for ideas; while I'm not one to read cover to cover, there is always useful information that can be located through the index. If you are fortunate enough to have a camera with some built in settings*, try several of them on any single artwork and see which has the best look. *(mine has built color settings for Portrait, Landscape, a combo of the first two, Macro (close-up), Museum (very handy if you must shoot indoors), and a number of others.) Over time you'll discover which setting works best for your kind of artwork.
If you have a new camera or haven't experimented much with it, try shooting at every 'preset' it has. You might be surprised at what variety you'll get, and the perfect camera setting for you may be lurking somewhere in the presets.

Once you've gotten a good starting photo, check back to these tips for easy ways to make your photo the best it can be with Photoshop. A good photo WILL help you sell your art.

(note: if you have anything to add, or a link to your favorite method of photographing, I'd be happy to post it.)

Photoshop Tips: 1. How to Afford Photoshop (plus options for other photo editing software)

2009-04-16T20:54:00.000-07:00

I wondered if this question might come up eventually.... and it has! Yes, Photoshop is notoriously expensive (about $550 - 700 for the latest new edition, CS4). However, there are several ways to obtain a working copy without breaking the bank, and all legally:

(illustration, "The Thrifty Mouse", R. Garriott)

Photoshop Elements: $70 and up
This is Photoshop stripped down. It has all the basics you need to make your photos look great (and this product is touted as more friendly for the casual user.) Available at Amazon.com for about $70-80 for the newest version 7 (sometimes you can find a rebate, too) with Free shipping!
Photoshop Student Edition: under $200
If you are a student you can buy this; it has all the features of the full flagship Photoshop (check the Adobe website for requirements). The major sticking point on it is that it is not upgradeable; if you want the new versions as they come out, you have to buy them. But the price is about the same as the full fledged version upgrades, so it comes out even. Starting at $197 at Amazon.com
Older version of Photoshop: $299.99
Confession here; I'm still using Photoshop CS2 and didn't even realize until today that we're up to CS4. Although I'm sure the latest version has new groovy bells and whistles, I'm quite content with CS2. The good news is there's still a few copies available out there, and today's going price is about $300 at Amazon.com

Please note that the links I've provided are for PC; if you have a Mac you'll need to specify that when searching on Amazon. The software prices are about the same for either platform.

Other Options for photo editing:
Thanks to other bloggers who've written in!

Although Photoshop is the Holy Grail of photo editing, it's not the only photo product out there.

From other astute readers I've learned that some of these tips will also work with Microsoft Photo Gallery and Paint Shop Pro.
Actually many photo editing programs have these features; although the names might be a bit different. If you have a printer, you most likely have some kind of photo editing software that came with it.
Artist Kate wrote: "Another option: download a free software called GIMP. It does a great deal of what Photoshop does.I personally love it. http://www.gimp.org/ "
Silk artist Deborah Younglao wrote in that she still is using Photoshop 5-- and I think that's just fine! There's been a few useful bells and whistles added over the versions, but for most of us, we just need the basic tools.
I have also heard that photosharing sites like Google's free Picasa has retouching capabilities.

If anyone knows of additional options, especially on the cheap, please write and let me know. Mostly what I hope to do is give people an idea of the terminology, so they can go in and figure it out themselves on what ever they use. If you don't know how to ask the question, it's hard to get the answer!
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A new blog, with new and old tips

2009-04-16T20:48:00.000-07:00

The Photoshop tips that previously appeared at http://rgarriott.blogspot.com/ will now appear here, so (hopefully) they are easier to follow. I'm going to repeat the original series, and add some new tips as I think of them or as they are suggested by you. If you're curious about my artwork, that can still be viewed at my R. Garriott blog.

Let me know if I can help make your artwork photos better!
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